Easy DIY Faux Multi-Drawer Cabinet Hack…using peel and stick flooring!

DIY Faux Multi Drawer Cabinet...using peel and stick planks!

Don’t you love it when an idea simply pops into your head?

That’s just what happened with this sideboard makeover.

I was about to cut down a sheet of thin plywood to create some faux drawer fronts when I suddenly stopped.

“Hey, peel and stick floorboards are about the same thickness as this plywood”, I thought. “Why don’t I try using them instead? They can be trimmed with a utility knife so I can share a cool ‘power tool free’ method anyone can have a go at!”.

Yay!

 

YOU WILL NEED…

Faux Drawer Sideboard Supplies

1 PIECE OF FURNITURE
You can affix faux drawer fronts to lots of different furniture items. From a dresser to an armoire to a nightstand, the options are almost endless. However, there are some attributes which will make things easier and produce better, more authentic-looking results. See my list of “What to Look For” towards the end of this post for some hints and tips.

I used a laminate office sideboard I found on eBay for just $35. Yes, that orange beast in the above pic is the actual piece of furniture I started with.

Now, I could pretend I bought this sideboard just last month. And that I refurbished it within a reasonable time-frame. ‘Cause, you know, that’s just how I roll.

Truth be told, it was sitting in my parent’s garage for almost three years before I even looked at it. ‘Cause, you know, that’s actually how I roll.

I bought it just after I finished this faux drawer DIY because I had a hankering for another similar project. Turns out my hankering wasn’t particularly pressing!

2 PEEL AND STICK FLOORING
Of course you can use whatever style you like. I went with Senso Self Adhesive Vinyl Planks in Rustic Walnut which I found at Bunnings. These have an amazing texture and look incredibly legit. Although the packet isn’t super cheap at around $60 I only used half so technically my faux drawers cost just $30, plus I still have plenty of boards left-over for another project! In the past I’ve used thicker products (generally 6mm/0.2″ plywood) to create faux drawer fronts however I needed something thin in this case to allow the doors to continue to swing freely (so as not to catch when opened) and to sit within the recess of the side panels (so as not to protrude and expose the ends).

3 PAINT
I used some left-over paint I already had. It’s Dulux Aquanamel in a navy colour called ‘Diplomat’. Of course, you can use whatever you like.

4 HARDWARE
Little knobs and label holders can be found in lots of places for super cheap nowadays. Etsy, eBay and AliExpress all have a good range, as do many discount cabinet hardware stores. I got my brass knobs from AliExpress (for just 20 cents a piece) and the label holders from eBay (for around 10 cents each). I also used three cup pulls which I also bought from eBay (for 60 cents each).

 

I was a bad blogger and didn’t take progress pics of every stage of this project. That said, I’ll do my best to explain things as clearly as possible.

 

STEP 1 Measure, trim and attach faux drawer fronts.

Decide how many drawers you’d like and their sizes. I went with ten drawers per door in a graduated formation; five small ones at the top, four medium ones in the center then one large one at the base. The large drawer front not only works to add interest, though also covers the toe-kick.

DIY Faux Flat File Cabinet

When you’re working out the dimensions, remember to account for an approximate 2mm/.1″ gap in between each drawer. Also, be sure to consider the width of your peel and stick planks. Obviously, you want as little wastage as possible and can save yourself some trimming.

Because my sideboard had a continuous bank of doors with no dividing verticals, the first thing I did was add two pieces of trim to break-up the drawers. Obviously, if your item of furniture already has dividers, or if you simply don’t mind if your faux drawers join, then you don’t need to worry about this extra step. To make them I simply cut down a length of pine moulding, painted them to co-ordinate with the body of the sideboard then glued them to the edge of both end doors. As with the base drawer, they also extend down over the toe-kick.

DIY Flat File Cabinet

Due to the vertical dividers, the two flanking doors are slightly narrower than the central door though this doesn’t detract from the look of the drawers at all.

Once you’re happy with the drawer dimensions you’ve decided on, cut down the planks with a utility (stanley) knife as needed, using a steel ruler as a guide. Once the score line is deep enough the plank should simply snap apart. It’s pretty quick and easy though you do need to concentrate somewhat to ensure your lines are nice and straight.

Cutting Vinyl Planks for Faux Drawers

Note: You’ll probably notice that the cut edges of your faux drawers have a white-ish grey appearance. If you like, you can colour them at this stage using a permanent marker, or some paint or stain, to co-ordinate with the surface tone of the planks. Otherwise, you could simply leave them or colour them black in Step 4.

I was keen to simply peel and stick these straight to my doors though I found there just wasn’t enough grip for them to adhere properly. They seemed to attach nicely to begin with though after a little while some areas began to wave and bow out. This may be because my piece of furniture was slippery laminate, or simply because the boards are designed to be adhered to a horizontal surface. Regardless, I decided to add a few dobs of liquid nails to each faux drawer to ensure a firm bond (I knew attaching the handles would help hold them in place too though I didn’t want to rely solely on those few screw points).

Tip: For ease, you can remove the doors and lay them flat whilst you’re attaching the faux drawers.

As mentioned earlier, the base faux drawer also works to conceal the toe-kick. To achieve this I simply extended it (and the vertical divider) over the toe-kick, so it’s longer than the actual door. The top half of the faux drawer is attached to the bottom of the actual door, the lower half of the faux drawer simply sits over the toe-kick. To cover the exposed adhesive and give the faux drawer more stability I attached some thick card to the rear of the over-hanging section.

Faux Drawer Toe-Kick Cover

The last thing I did at this stage was add a proper base and some little feet.

DIY Faux Drawer Cabinet

Obviously, this isn’t essential and depends on the design of your particular piece of furniture and the look you personally want. To do this I cut down a plank of pine and attached it to the base of my sideboard along the front. I then cut down two smaller pieces from the same pine plank and attached them to the base along each side. To finish, I cut down a square length of pine to create four simple little feet and screwed them to the new base.

 

STEP 2 Paint.

Remove the doors (if you haven’t already) and paint your piece of furniture as desired. As mine is laminate I sanded it thoroughly and used a good primer before applying two top coats.

Faux Multi-Drawer Cabinet using Vinyl Flooring!

The vertical divider appears to over-hang the side of the door in this pic. I think this is because the edge of it looks darker which has created the illusion of a shadow. It’s actually flush with the door.

Along with painting the entire body, I also painted the edge of the doors to ensure none of the original orange laminate could be seen peeking-out from around the sides.

 

STEP 3 Attach hardware.

This is when it all starts to come together!

If, like me, you have a million handles and holders to attach this step can get tedious. Don’t feel like you need to do it all in one go.

DIY Faux Fat File Cabinet with Brass Handles

A cardboard template can make things quicker and more accurate. And, as always, I recommend drilling pilot holes for all screws, even the tiny baby ones. It just makes things easier (although the vinyl is pretty easy to screw into). Ensure you use a drill bit one or two sizes smaller than the screw itself for any pilot holes.

Tip: Check for any obstacles which might interfere with your hardware placement, such as hinges or internal shelves.

 

STEP 4 Finishing touches.

Use a long-tipped black marker or fine paint brush to colour the gaps between the faux drawers black.

Painting the Drawer Gaps

Of course, if your doors were already black or very dark you don’t need to worry about this step. My doors were basically bright orange!

Note: I chose not to paint my doors before applying the planks because I was concerned the laminate wouldn’t hold the paint well enough. If I had painted my doors first, then the planks would essentially have been attached to the surface paint, not the doors themselves, and I figured it was likely that the adhesive on the planks would easily pull the paint straight off. You could paint your doors first if they are made from something which will take the paint well.

As mentioned earlier, you can also colour the edges of the planks at this stage if you like. Any excess ink or paint should wipe off the vinyl with ease so keep a damp cloth on hand.

To complete the project, fill the label holders. You could hand-write your labels though I decided to print some letters and numbers onto aged paper.

DIY Faux Flat File...using peel and stick planks!

STEP 5 Done!

DIY Multi-Drawer Cabinet...using vinyl peel and stick planks!

I couldn’t be happier with the way this all came together!

Faux Drawer Cabinet Before and After

At first I was questioning my choice of paint colour (which was merely a left-over I figured I may as well use), though all styled-up it actually works really well!

I particularly love the way the faux drawers have slightly imperfect edges which mimic the rusticity of their finish.

DIY Faux Fat File Cabinet with Brass Handles

Oh, and just in case you’re worried, opening the doors is a cinch. The little handles are easy to clasp and the doors swing really easily, no matter where you grab them from.

Faux Multi-Drawer Cabinet using Vinyl Flooring!

All up this project cost me around $60 (minus the price of my sideboard) which I think was definitely worth it. Such a difference!

As mentioned above, if you’re interested in having a go at a project like this, there are some furniture attributes which can make things easier and produce better looking results…

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR PIECE OF FURNITURE

:: CONCEALED HINGES Obviously, if you’re trying to pretend a cabinet with doors is actually comprised of drawers, you don’t want visible hinges giving the jig up.

:: SLIGHTLY RECESSED DOORS You need some space for the faux drawers to nestle into so that their ends aren’t visible.

:: DIVIDING VERTICALS This is a matter of personal preference though I think cabinets like this look more authentic if the drawer rows are segregated.

:: FLAT PANEL DOORS For obvious reasons, it works best to attach the faux drawers to a nice flat surface. Doors with raised mouldings or engraved details may not work as well.

This sideboard will be used in my parent’s bedroom retreat to store all of mum’s sewing stuff. If you noticed the stenciled floor, you can read a bit more about that here. I’ve actually been working on refreshing this room for the past five-ish years. Isn’t that ridiculous? It’s a tiny space though mum keeps changing her mind about what it “needs to do”. Yes, let’s just blame her ;) I definitely think this is the year to get it done though. Right?

I love doing these faux multi-drawer cabinets and am already looking forward to my next one. I want to do something massive with heaps of really skinny drawers. Finger crossed it doesn’t take me three years to get around to it this time!

DIY Multi-Drawer Cabinet Makeover using peel and stick planks!

 

Signature

You can find my previous faux drawer makeovers here…

DIY Flat File Drawers Flat Pack Hack

 

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DIY Over-Size Book Page Quote Art…with free printables!

Large Scale Book Quote Art FREE Printables!

UPDATE

As a budget-focused decorator and blogger, conjuring and sharing ways to “get the look for less” is something I relish. This project was no exception.
Originally, it was my belief that these artworks were merely part of the prevailing typography sign trend; mass-designed, mass-produced and mass-distributed. I have since learned the concept for these designs originates with a small business.
As such, I will not be offering any further free printables in this style, nor will I be able to provide advice about making your own.
Apologies to those of you who were eagerly awaiting the next installment.

I’m so excited to finally share this project with you guys!

I started dreaming-up this DIY and designing these free printables almost two years ago (yes, you read right, two years ago) after I published this post about my little DIY quote art sign.

Don’t ask me why it’s taken me sooooo long to finally get the project and printables done. Seriously, don’t ask me. I honestly have no decent answer :)

Anyhoo, I got there in the end, right? And I’m loving the way everything turned out.

I was inspired by some of the large farmhouse style book page quote signs I had seen on Pinterest…

Large-Scale Book Page Art

Fable & Flame | Unknown

Some Googling around revealed that this style of wall art isn’t exactly cheap. Like around $400 not cheap. Yikes! Surely I could do a bit better than that.

All up this project cost me about $40 though you could easily do it for under $10 if you’re feeling extra thrifty. I’ve included some savvy tips and tricks in the info below.

Dotted-Break

 

PRINTING THE ARTWORK

There are heaps of places which offer printing services. If you’re not certain where to start looking, check out your local office supplies store or have a Google around for “print and copy services”. I’ve also seen some super affordable printing services being offered through eBay. You can visit a store in person or use an online upload interface. I personally prefer the ease and convenience of uploading my artwork online then having my print delivered directly to my door. This is maybe because my nearest print store isn’t exactly near-by.

For ease, I’ve designed these printables to fit within standard large poster frames (60cm x 90cm/24″ x 36″) however you may reduce or enlarge the size within reason to suit your particular needs (be aware that excessive re-sizing can result in a poor quality print).

You should be able to find a service which will print a full colour, large poster-sized print on decent paper for around $15 – $40. I used the Officeworks Colour Poster printing service. If you’re interested in making this project even more budget friendly, you could opt for a black and white engineering/plan print on bond paper for as little as $2 (you could then add some colour with a tea-stain, or similar). Alternatively, you could have it printed at premium quality onto a specialty material, such as canvas, for anywhere from $50 – $150. The options are almost endless.

For further printing information refer to my Free Printables series.

 

FRAMING THE ARTWORK

As mentioned above, to make things super easy for you guys, I’ve designed these printables to fit perfectly within standard large (60cm x 90cm/24″ x 36″) poster frames. If you’re unsure where to find large poster frames, check out your local dollar and discount department stores, do a quick Google search or head into Ikea – they have a few to choose from.

Of course, you can always DIY your own farmhouse style custom frame if you’d prefer (refer to my tutorial here – you simply need to up the scale and choose your desired framing wood), or use a thrifted frame as long as the aspect-ratio is compatible. You could also simply top-and-tail the print itself with some dowels and add a cute twine hanger to make a simple wall chart.

For the purpose of this blog post, I framed my printable in a standard large poster frame I found for $15 at a local discount variety store.

Poster Frame Before

The faux wood frame was a little too perfect for my liking so I decided to attempt a farmhouse style makeover. I distressed it to make it look like reclaimed wood (I simply scratched it up with a serrated knife and banged it with some nails before lightly sanding it – similar to what I did here) then I stained it a warm brown.

Distressed Farmhouse Sign Frame

I wasn’t sure how the laminate would respond to being distressed and stained though it actually worked really, really well!

For an authentic ‘sign’ look, I also removed the glass and affixed my print directly to the backing board using spray adhesive.

 

Dotted-Break

 

I’m offering eight printables in total; four different quotes in both sepia and chalkboard. As mentioned above, these are high resolution, large-scale images.

I chose these quotes because they’re a little bit unusual and something about them just spoke to me. I especially love the ‘Cherokee Legend’ which is the first one I designed.

Free Printable Book Page Quote Sign

Have you heard this one before? It’s so evocative.

Anyhoo, grab your free printables below. There are two separate files; one for the sepia images, and one for the chalkboard images.

Free Printable Book Page Quote Page Art

Free Download Sepia Book Quote Art Free Download Chalkboard Book Quote Art

I know it can be disheartening when budget restraints push the items you love out of reach, so if you’ve been coveting these lovely farmhouse style signs I hope my free offerings give you a little “squeee” moment and help make your walls beautiful.

 

Signature

As always, if you have trouble or are unsure of anything, feel free to ask.

Oh, and I just wanted to let you know that the photos in this post are of my actual finished sign. I was looking at them and the artwork almost appears to be super-imposed. Believe me, it’s truly ruly real!

 8 Large Scale Book Quote Art FREE Printables

Free for personal non-commercial use only.

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DIY Mini Barn Doors…a complete tutorial

DIY Mini Barn Doors

This was one of those “gee, if this actually works it’s gonna be really cool” kinda projects.

Well, thankfully, it did…and it is! If I do say so myself :)

DIY Mini Barn Door Tutorial

Although I installed these DIY barn doors specifically to conceal a washing machine, they could be used in place of ordinary doors wherever space permits. Wouldn’t they make a great TV cover? And, whilst mine are attached directly to a counter top, you could also affix this style of DIY barn door to a free-standing piece of furniture, such as a buffet. On top of all that, you could opt for a single door instead of two. The possibilities are almost endless!

I know that concealing the washing machine in a laundry room might seem a tad extraneous, and in most cases it probably is, though when I was charged with the task of refreshing my parent’s laundry room, it was almost a given.

You see, this room adjoins a main hallway in their house and has no dedicated door (or even doorway) so is entirely open! Not only is it super visible, though it’s also often used by guests as a powder room of sorts to service an adjacent water closet.

Yep, something pretty, yet still practical, was certainly called for.

Here’s how the whole thing went down…

Given the tight time-frame for this makeover (and the fact this was an entirely experimental project I thought might not even work!), I didn’t take progress photos of this DIY. That said, I have taken a few “example” pics and will do my utmost to explain everything as clearly and concisely as possible. 

You will need…

DIY Barn Door Supplies and Hardware

1 METAL FLAT BAR
This can be found in several lengths, widths and thicknesses at most hardware stores. I chose a black steel bar that measured 25mm/1″ wide (just narrower than my counter thickness) x 3mm/.1″ thick x 2 meters/6.5′ long. It only cost $5.

2 METAL GARDEN EDGING PEGS
I swear, when I stumbled across these at the hardware store a string orchestra started playing and a sudden beam of sunlight illuminated aisle 4! I had a pretty open mind about the style of hardware I could repurpose for the door sliders though these matched my vision perfectly! And they were only $1 each! Squeee!

3 SPACERS
To provide a gap between the counter and bar I used some rubber chair leg stoppers (because, well, that’s what I found in the shed – plus, they just happened to be perfect). You could use almost anything with appropriate dimensions; washers, nuts, felt pads – you could even make your own spacers by slicing up a wooden dowel. Just ensure that whatever you use is thicker than the arm of your edging pegs or they will rub and won’t glide easily. And remember, don’t worry too much about what colour they are as you can always paint them.

4 SCREWS & BOLTS
Screws to attach the metal bar to the counter (ensure they are long enough to provide a decent hold). I used dome head screws. Bolts to attach the edging pegs to the doors (ensure they are long enough to go right though the doors with enough remaining thread to attach the nuts). I used dome head bolts.

5 PLYWOOD
You could use anything similar to make the doors. I like plywood because it’s inexpensive, comes in lots of sizes and thicknesses and is more hard-wearing than most composite boards (such as MDF and masonite). I needed the total thickness of my doors to be around 1cm/.4″ to fit nicely within the arch of the edging pegs so I used 7mm/.3″ plywood for the door panels themselves and 3mm/.1″ plywood for the decorative trim.

6 SPRAY PAINT
For the metal bar and edging pegs. I simply used matte black for an industrial feel. A brassy gold would be cool for a more contemporary look.

7 PAINT
For the doors themselves. I used standard acryclic wall paint in “Green Result” by British Paints.

8 HANDLES
I used basic handles from the hardware store which cost just $4 each. In my case, these are merely cosmetic as the doors glide best when they are pushed from the top, plus it saves having to bend to open them.

 

STEP 1 Trim metal bar.

Measure how long you need/want your metal bar to be (mine is just shy of the full length of my counter) then trim it to size. I simply used a hacksaw and it was quick and easy.

Cutting the Metal Bar

Tip: If the cut end is overly rough, you can smooth it with a metal file.

 

STEP 2 Drill holes in metal bar and edging pegs.

For the metal bar…

You will probably need affixing holes at each end plus one in the center. You may also want additional holes to form stoppers for the doors and/or help stabilise your bar if it’s quite long. I added two extra holes around 30cm/12″ in from each end.

Barn Door Screw Points

My five affixing points are circled in yellow above.

Note: If you do add more holes, ensure they are positioned so as not to impede the desired opening span of your doors as the peg arms will hit the screws.

To make the holes, use a drill bit one size larger than your screws. You want the screws to fit through the holes with relative ease.

Drilling into Metal Bar

Apply even and steady pressure – getting through can take a bit of strength and time – and ensure your underlying surface isn’t anything precious as you’re likely to hit it one you get through the metal. If you have trouble with the drill bit slipping at first, use a smaller bit to create a pilot hole.

For the edging pegs…

Work out where you want/need to bolt your doors to the pegs. Remember to account for the “dead” space the bar will occupy at the top of the pegs.

I made one hole towards the base then another around 3cm/1″ above it.

DIY Barn Door Hardware

To make the holes, insert a scrap piece of wood into the arch of the peg to keep it rigid. Drill through your holes, then remove the wood scrap.

Drilling through Pegs

For demonstrative purposes, I’m only making one hole. Of course, I made two in my actual pegs. Also, this red peg is slightly smaller than the silver ones I actually used though it’s all they had at my nearest hardware store!

Using the holes as a guide, next drill through the back side of the peg too, being careful to keep the drill as straight and level as possible.

DIY Barn Door Hardware

Again, choose a drill bit one size larger than your bolts. You want the bolts to slot through easily.

Note: You can use regular bits to drill through metal (I did) though it can take a while and will blunt the bits. Purpose metal bits are far better if you have them. Once you’re done, you can use a file if you need to smooth any particularly rough edges.

 

STEP 3 Paint hardware.

Clean all of your hardware then spray it your desired colour.

Black Spray Paint for DIY Barn Doors

To ensure you get a good, long-lasting finish, wipe each item with isopropyl alcohol first.

 

STEP 4 Attach bar to counter.

Measure to the center of your counter. Hold a spacer in place then drill a pilot hole straight through both the spacer and counter (use a drill bit one or two sizes smaller than your screw – if your spacers already have a central hole then you can drill the pilot hole through the counter alone). With the spacer still in place, line up your metal bar (using the central hole you’ve already drilled in it as a guide), insert a screw then screw the bar, together with the spacer, to the counter.

Attaching the Bar

Note: If, like me, you’re using rubber spacers be careful not to tighten the screws too much. It may overly compress the rubber and result in too narrow a gap for the edging pegs. Of course, you can always loosen the screw if you do happen to tighten it too much.

Repeat with the remaining affixing points until the bar is completely attached.

DIY Barn Door Track Hardware

Note: I decided to attach the bar at this stage so I could use it as a definite guide for determining the accurate dimensions for my doors. I liked that I could drape the pegs over it and get a good visual by playing around with everything first. I don’t do so well using measurements alone! If you feel confident enough working out the size for your doors without having the bar in place, you could attach it during Step 6 instead.

 

STEP 5 Make doors.

Accurately measure how large each of your doors needs to be. Remember to allow for some clearance at the base if you’re taking your doors all the way to the floor like mine. My doors are 30cm/12″ wide x 85cm/33″ long.

Cut your door panels from the plywood sheet. I used my plunge track saw for this though if you’re not confident with power tools (or, if you don’t even have any) your hardware store may cut it for you.

Cutting the Barn Doors

Add decorative trim in any style you like (I went with a basic farmhouse inverted “V”).

DIY Budget Laundry Makeover with sliding barn doors

I created my trim by cutting down a sheet of plywood however you may be able to find off-the-shelf strips at the hardware store, or perhaps you could repurpose something, like venetian blind slats.

Attach the trim with wood glue, ensuring it is evenly clamped until completely set. If you notice areas where the trim is lifting or not sitting flush, you can use some small nails or screws. Just be sure to countersink the heads and fill any divots prior to painting.

Once the doors are constructed, caulk any gaps (if required), finish them as desired with your choice of paint or stain then attach your handles.

Note: Plywood has a tendency to warp, particularly if one side becomes overly hot or damp. I was working on my doors outside in the sun and they bowed considerably. I was a little worried they would be ruined, though once I got them inside they straightened out again. If you have trouble with warping which doesn’t seem to self-right, you can compress the doors under something heavy overnight.

 

STEP 6 Attach doors.

As mentioned above in Step 4, if you feel confident working everything out based on measurements alone, then go for it. Measurements alone are not my friend. I like to play around with the actual components and position everything in place to determine where I need to drill and join. So, this is how I went about attaching my doors (feel free to do whatever suits you)…

Drape the edging pegs over the bar then slot each door in place. Use a spacer (I just used a narrow timber off-cut) to hold the doors up off the floor at your desired clearance height.

Tip: If you find the arch in your pegs is too narrow for your doors, pry them open a little by leveraging them using your foot.

Once the pegs and doors are in exact position, mark the doors where the bolt holes need to be made (by inserting a pencil through the holes in the pegs). Remove the pegs and doors and drill the bolt holes in the doors (use a bit one size larger than the bolt).

Next, line up the holes in the doors with the holes in the pegs and push the bolts through. Fasten at the rear with a nut.

Rear of DIY Barn Doors

If your bolts overhang, you can trim them down with a grinder or hacksaw.

To get the doors on the bar, remove a few of the fastening screws (in my case, the central one along with the two on the right hand side) then slide the doors into position before re-attaching the screws.

Attaching the DIY Mini Barn Doors

Note: Depending on how accessible your space is, you may need to completely remove your bar to slide the doors on. Alternatively, you may be able to slide the doors on from each end. Just do whatever works best for your situation.

 

STEP 7 Finishing touches.

Due to the fact the existing cupboard doors abut the underside of the counter, and because the washing machine protrudes somewhat, I had no choice but to attach my doors to the face of the counter. As a result they sit further out than the existing cupboard doors which initially produced a relatively obvious gap when viewed side-on. To remedy this, I attached two plywood off-cuts to act as “blinkers”.

DIY Bran Doors Side Blinkers

They are attached to the sides of the cupboards (screwed on from inside the cupboards) and, painted cream to co-ordinate, look just like part of the cabinetry.

Although it was part of my original plan, these doors have no floor guides or stays. I found that they hang neatly and glide smoothly as is, which I think can be somewhat attributed to their petite nature. If you found you had difficulty getting your doors to sit the way you wanted, or if they didn’t glide in a nice straight line, you could install some simple floor guides or stays, or even attach cute little wheels.

To finish, I coloured the screw and bolt heads to match my hardware. I just used a permanent marker though you could also paint them.

If needed, you can also touch-up any paint chips elsewhere on the doors or hardware.

STEP 8 Done!

DIY Budget Laundry Makeover with sliding barn doors

How to Make these DIY Sliding Barn Doors

DIY Mini Sliding Barn Doors

I don’t think I need to reiterate how stoked I am that this crazy, affordable, and not too tricky, project actually worked!

Love them!

END NOTES

:: Although these little doors work exceptionally well, I’m hesitant to recommend upping the scale unless you use larger pegs (so the doors can be thicker, thus less prone to waves or warps) and some sort of floor runner (to assist with smooth motion).

:: Some of my readers expressed concern about the “metal on metal” screeching which might arise from the opening and closing of the doors. I can honestly say that there is almost no sound at all!

:: I thought that the spray paint might chip easily though it’s holding up incredibly well. Like, really, really well! There is barely any sign of wear and these doors are opened and closed several times daily. I have used isopropyl alcohol a few times to clean metal prior to spray painting it and I think it makes a huge difference.

:: Not only do these doors work to conceal the presence of an unattractive appliance, though they are entirely practical. They glide with ease, don’t shake or rattle when the washing machine is in use (which surprised everyone!) and sit neatly side-by-side when closed. Don’t ask me how it all came together so well…maybe thanks to a gut-full of determination sprinkled with a hand-full of luck :)

Here are some before and afters just for context’s sake…

Budget Laundry Room Refresh

Budget Laundry Room Refresh

DIY Laundry Room with Farmhouse Shelves

I hope this tutorial inspires a few of you to give it a go!

Catch up on all the laundry room refresh projects here.

Signature

How to make your own cheap and easy barn doors

PS If you’re an email subscriber of mine, you may have noticed a little change this week.

I’m currently in the process of moving to a new service, which is super exciting as it provides fresh subscriber features I’ve previously not been able to offer!

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How to Add Trim to Plain Doors

The “new” doors were one of the most commented on and asked about elements in the laundry room makeover.

Complete DIY Door Trim Tutorial

And, subtle as their redo was, they really did deserve the attention!

Although I was hopeful dressing them up with a bit of trim would inject fresh character, I was genuinely surprised by the impact they actually have in the space. They were even the first thing my husband commented on when he saw the refreshed room; “Gee, doesn’t this moulding make a difference?”.

“Why, yes it does!”.

DIY Budget Laundry Makeover with sliding barn doors

Great news is, it was a simple, affordable and relatively speedy project anyone can have a go at.

YOU WILL NEED…

DIY Door Trim Supplies

1 MOULDING/TRIM
I used 18mm/.7″ pine moulding though you can use whatever you like. If you’re planning on painting it, then you can even opt for a cheaper material, such as MDF or PVC – if you can find it in the profile you like. Before you purchase your moulding, check the lengths for straightness and any imperfections. Some pieces can be quite warped or have cracks, dents and knot holes.

2 WOOD GLUE
Any strong wood glue is fine. I used PVA. Glue isn’t essential though does help provide a more secure and consistent bond.

3 FINISHING NAILS
These are simply fine nails with small bullet heads designed to sink into wood. They leave no surface sign of the nail itself though sometimes produce a little hole which requires filling. I used nails which were only around 5mm/.2″ longer then the depth of my moulding. You can use glue alone though the nails make the project speedier (as they provide instant grip) and help with creating a certain bond.

4 FILLER
To patch any gaps, cracks or holes prior to painting. I used Selley’s ‘No More Gaps’ because that’s what I found in the shed.

5 PAINT
I used bright white in a semi-gloss finish to co-ordinate with the near-by doors and architraves. Of course, you can use whatever you like.

ALONG WITH…

MITRE SAW/HAND SAW & MITER BOX

PENCIL

TAPE MEASURE/RULER

SPIRIT LEVEL

MASKING TAPE

HAMMER

SANDPAPER

Dotted-Break

For the purpose of this tutorial, I’m attaching the trim to a door in an adjoining room (as I didn’t take progress pics when I completed the doors in the laundry room).
For clarity, I’ll outline my exact process though keep in mind there are heaps of different moulding styles and application methods you could choose to use instead.

Dotted-Break

STEP 1 Determine the placement and dimensions of your moulding.

Measure your door, along with the handle position, then roughly draw it down on paper, including all of the dimensions.

DIY Door Trim Before

Here’s mine…

How to Mould Doors

NOT TO SCALE

Note: Check your door for squareness. Measure horizontally across both the top and bottom. Measure vertically along both the left and right sides. If you notice any major discrepancy, be sure to account for it when you’re working out the dimensions for your moulding or it may look a bit askew.

Next, establish where you’d like your moulding to be positioned. You can place it wherever you feel it will look best. It doesn’t need to be centered or symmetrical and you can use three or four or five or more “panels” – just keep in mind the more complex you make the design the more complex you make the measurements, plus there is then also more cutting involved. If you’re not confident visualising your design, use some masking tape (or a pencil) to mark out the approximate placement on the door first. Once you’re happy, measure where the moulding needs to sit on the door.

Add your moulding to the drawing of the door and use all of the measurements you’ve taken to work out the lengths for each piece of moulding.

Here’s my finished drawing…

Adding Moulding to Doors

NOT TO SCALE

So, based on my measurements, all of my horizontal mouldings need to be 64cm/25″ (80cm/31″ minus 16cm/6″). My vertical mouldings vary due to the fact the door handle isn’t centered. The upper verticals need to be 94cm/37″ (110cm/43″ minus 16cm/6″). The lower verticals need to be 74cm/29″ (90cm/35″ minus 16cm/6″).

 

STEP 2 Trim moulding to length.

With all of the dimensions determined, it’s time to break out the saw!

The moulding needs to be mitered (trimmed on a 45 degree angle). For this you can use a power miter saw or simply a miter box and hand saw.

First, trim one tip off your length of moulding at 45 degrees to give you a starting point.

Door Molding Trim

Note: If your moulding has a stepped profile, like mine, pay attention to the direction it needs to sit on the door to ensure you are mitering it the right way. Don’t ask me why I know to double check this!

Next, from the longest point, measure out your required length and place a mark on the moulding where your next cut needs to be made.

Measuring Door Moulding

Note: Because my moulding is so narrow, I didn’t bother drawing a guide line. I simply marked it with a dash. If your moulding is particularly wide, for greater accuracy you may want to use a combination square to draw a 45 degree trim line to follow.

Remember, the length for your moulding is from longest point to longest point.

 How to Trim Molding

Finally, using the opposite miter to that of the first cut, trim your moulding to size.

Trimming Moulding

Here’s what a finished piece should look like…

Door Molding

Obviously, you want your piece of moulding to be accurately cut first go. However, if you’re not feeling super confident, err on the side of caution and go a tad bigger. You can always make another small cut if required. You can’t, however, add length if you happen to trim the moulding too short! And remember to account for the blade width.

Repeat this process until all of your pieces of moulding are cut to size. Check them for accuracy as you go.

To finish, if necessary, lightly sand the cut ends, being careful not to round the moulding too much.

Tip: Be mindful of the order in which you cut your pieces to best manage wastage. For example, rather than cut three 55cm/21″ pieces from a 2 meter/78″ length of moulding (thus resulting in 35cm/15″ of offcut), cut one 55cm/21″ piece and two 68cm/26″ pieces (resulting in just 9cm/5″ of offcut). Of course, these dimensions are just exemplary. It’s up to you to work out the best use of your moulding lengths based on your particular dimensions.

Tip: If you happen to run just short, you can piece together two offcuts to make up one whole piece. Simply cut them straight in the center then miter each end at the required length. When you attach them to the door, butt them neatly together and fill any gaps with caulk prior to painting.

 

STEP 3 Attach moulding to door.

Start with the top-most horizontal piece.

Based on your previously determined placement, measure down from the top and in from the edge of your door (8cm/3″ in my case) then mark that point with a pencil.

DIY Door Molding

Excuse my filthy ruler! #liquidnailsisreallythatsticky

Tip: If you’re planning on adding the same moulding to multiple doors of the same size, make a template so you don’t need to measure each time.

Smear the rear of your moulding with a sparing amount of wood glue.

DIY Door Molding Tutorial

Line up your length of moulding with your mark, use a spirit level to help gauge its straightness, then tape it securely in position (at this point you can also measure to double check the position is 100% accurate, especially if your door is hanging a tad crooked like mine).

How to Add Molding to Plain Doors

The piece of moulding looks a little wonky in the above pic, though it’s just the angle of the photo.

Hammer in three – five finishing nails along the length of the moulding then remove the tape. If necessary, wipe away excess glue and use a punch to countersink any proud nail heads.

Hammering in the Nails

Tip: I find it’s best to hammer in the central nail first. This allows you to swivel or manipulate the moulding if it happens to shift out of position.

Attaching Molding to Solid Doors

One piece down!

With the first length now attached, you can use it as an “anchor” to easily complete your moulding.

First, at the approximate place the lower piece of moulding will sit, measure in from both edges of the door and mark with a pencil (again, 8cm/3″ in my case).

Adding Molding to Doors

Smear the remaining three pieces of moulding with glue.

Next, starting with a vertical length, position it on the door using your pencil mark as a guide. Tape it in place temporarily.

Repeat with the second vertical length.

Adding Moulding to Doors

Again, it looks a little wonky, though it’s just the angle of the pic.

Finally, add the lower horizontal length. Make any small adjustments as required (use a spirit level or ruler if needed), then tape each piece securely in position.

How to Add Molding to Doors

Nail each piece of moulding to the door then remove the tape. If required, clean-up excess glue and countersink any nail heads.

DIY Door Moulding

Add the second “panel” using the same method as the first.

DIY Door Moulding How-To

You can glimpse the finished laundry room double doors in the above pic on the left.

Note: You could use wood glue alone and forgo the nails. You would just need to leave the tape in place until it dries completely. Conversely, you could use nails alone and forgo the glue. I like to use both because the nails provide instant and certain grip and the glue helps with a more secure and consistent bond. It’s really up to you.

 

STEP 4 Caulk and paint.

Once your door moulding is complete, fill any gaps or nail head holes with caulk, allow to dry then paint as desired.

Adding Trim to Interior Doors

As mentioned in the ‘Suppplies’ section, I freshened my door up with a few coats of bright white in a semi-gloss finish to co-ordinate with the near-by doors and architraves.

 

STEP 5 Done!

DIY Door Molding After

There is just something so satisfying about dressing-up a boring door with some trim!

DIY Interior Door Trim Before and After

And for only $14 per door, and around an hour of time, it’s sooooo totally worth it.

DIY Door Moulding

Budget Laundry Makeover with DIY Door Trim

The amount of character the moulding adds is amazing. It really gives the whole room, not just the doors themselves, a huge personality boost. Love it!

Anyhoo, I hope my ridiculously OTT tutorial encourages a few of you to give it a go too :)

Sorry it took me a while to get this how-to together. I wanted to make the post as thorough and clear as possible.

I’ll be back as soon as I can to share the tutorial for the little barn doors!

Signature

You can find the laundry room refresh and all of the related projects here.

How to Add Trim to Doors

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DIY Farmhouse Wall Shelves…using hand-rail brackets

DIY Budget Laundry Shelves

You know when you have a design idea, though the details are all a bit hazy and there are way too many options to consider, so you go to the hardware store in hopes a magical product will jump out and make the style decision for you?

That’s pretty much what happened with these shelves.

I knew I wanted open shelves on the wall in my parent’s laundry room, however I didn’t have a clear vision of what they should look like. Nor, given the tight time-frame of the room makeover, did I have my usual luxury of spending days (or even weeks!) coming to a decision.

Enter my “just-choose-something-already” trip to the hardware store.

These were the brackets which first caught my eye as I was perusing the (rather dull, if I’m honest) offerings.

Black Handrail Bracket

They are actually hand-rail brackets – and rather pragmatic ones at that. Still, I liked their somewhat crude industrial form and the fact they weren’t traditional shelf brackets – they felt unique. I also thought they would tie-in nicely with the barn door hardware I was planning for the room. And, as a bonus, they were only $8 each!

If you like the idea of using hand-rail brackets yourself, turns out they are actually quite prolific and come in lots of styles and finishes…not to mention price-points! Here’s just a small selection I found during a quick online search…

Handrail Brackets as Shelf Brackets

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5

Note: Some handrail brackets are set on a slight angle. Ensure the ones you choose are at 90 degrees.

Aren’t the ones with the separate “U” clasps cute?

To compliment the brackets, and reference the new butcher-block style counter, I decided on simple timber shelves.

DIY Budget Laundry Makeover with sliding barn doors

Initially, I was loving the idea of reclaimed wood though whilst at the hardware store I just happened upon the perfect pine plank for only $14. To make the shelves I simply cut it down as required then stained both lengths to co-ordinate with the counter (I used Feast Watson ‘Old Baltic’ which I already had on hand).

DIY Handrail Bracket Shelves

Now, I never intended to share a full “how-to” for the installation of the shelves. I mean, it’s really not that interesting and is a pretty straight-forward DIY. That said, I do remember the last time I attempted to install shelves (#disaster #iblamescreamingchildren #Ialsoblamemysister), so here’s my basic process…

1 Determine approximately where you need your brackets to go then check the wall for any studs. If possible, adjust the placement slightly so that at least one bracket per shelf is in a stud. If installing into a stud isn’t an option for you, ensure you use appropriate plaster/drywall plugs to secure the brackets safely.

2 Once you have gauged the bracket placement, install one bracket, ensuring it is straight and level. Next, use a spirit level to determine the accurate placement of the second bracket. Whilst the bracket is in perfect position, accurately mark the screw points on the wall with a pencil or drill bit. If you’re fortunate enough to have a second person around, it can make things easier.

3 Once the second bracket is installed, place the shelf on top then mark the screw points from the underside with a pencil. Remove the shelf to drill the pilot holes then reposition and attach with screws.

Tip: If your screws aren’t the same colour/material as your brackets, once installed colour the heads with a permanent marker to match. That’s exactly what I did!

Tip: As with any hardware which requires multiple screws, I don’t like to fully tighten the screws until they are all in place. I find this just provides some wriggle room for getting the hardware and screw head positions properly aligned.

DIY Farmhouse Shelves with Handrail Brackets

I realise that’s a pretty blunt summary, though let me know if you have any questions :)

To style the shelves I used a selection of pretty, budget-friendly laundry/powder room-ish accessories.

DIY Farmhouse Style Shelves

Glass Jars (Ikea)
Wooden Hand (eBay)
Hand Towels (H&M)
Mortar & Pestle, Marble Canister, Lotion Bottles (Kmart)
Everything Else (Thrifted)

So, for just over $20 per shelf, and less than an hour of my time, I managed to create a really cool focal point. Yay to that!

DIY Laundry Room with Farmhouse Shelves

DIY Budget Laundry Makeover with sliding barn doors

See the entire laundry room makeover here.

Signature

PS I didn’t win the laundry refresh contest though thanks to your votes I came in a respectable fourth place, plus my parent’s have a “new” laundry room they absolutely love, so in many ways I did win really! Thanks so, so much to everyone who took the time to vote for me.

PPS For those of you have been following me for a while, you might be interested to hear that my eldest started school yesterday! Do you remember when I was decorating her nursery? That was just last week, wasn’t it?

$20 DIY Farmhouse Shelves using Hand-Rail Brackets!

 

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