Re-Love Project…before & after

Tribal Sideboard Cabinet

I’m so excited to finally share this!

If you’re not new here, you’re probably aware of my involvement in the Re-Love Project and what it’s all about. For those of you who don’t know, in short it’s a Feast Watson campaign in collaboration with Salvos Stores which sees seven design personalities “re-love” a neglected item of furniture with the resulting pieces being auctioned wholly for charity. Pretty cool, huh? You can read my first post about it here and learn more on the Feast Watson website here.

It’s such a wonderful campaign which I’m thrilled to be involved with.

Anyhoo, as revealed in my previous post about the project, I started with this crappy old sideboard which I picked up for just $5…

Mid Century Sideboard Before

I bought this baby “site unseen” (after a friend sent me a photo) because I loved the clean mid-century lines and generous proportions.

I also really liked the fact it looked so disheveled. I know that might sound weird, however I love “sow’s ear to silk purse” makeovers, and knew I could do something completely transformative with this piece.

And how bad could it be, right?

Right?

Turns out…pretty bad.

I mean, it was clear there was a missing drawer and door (I could deal with that) though what wasn’t clear was the fact that the remaining doors and drawers were all constructed from faux wood-grain textured chipboard! And that the top and sides were nothing more than super thin faux marble laminated masonite!

Yikes!

Still, I had a vision and it was going to come to fruition!

Here’s how the whole thing went down…

 

Step 1 Prep

This basically involved stripping the sideboard down to its frame.

I first removed the drawers and doors. Unfortunately, there was no salvaging their swollen, water-damaged chipboard. Regardless, I wasn’t keen on constructing one, let alone four, new drawers anyway, so for ease I had decided to forgo them completely in favour of installing new full-height doors in their place. Not only was this a simpler solution, it would also give the sideboard a nice, clean look.

Next I removed the internal drawer runners and section dividers (this was a simple matter of prying them off) and all of the old hardware.

Removing Doors and Drawers

The doors, drawers, internal runners and dividers, plus all of the old hardware, were removed.

Initially, I had been hopeful of retaining the exterior panels though they were warped and damaged and just plain inferior. The best solution was to remove them completely.

Removing the Panels

Removing one of the panels. As you can see, it was simply glued and nailed on.

A few decent bangs with a hammer later and my sideboard was down to its (thankfully very solid) birthday suit!

Sideboard Frame Before

The “naked” sideboard. Fortunately the pine frame was nice and solid.

Although the prospect of replacing the panels was a little scary, it actually turned out to be one of the easiest processes in the whole project! Sometimes the seemingly big jobs which appear intimidating are actually the most straight-forward!

To complete my prep I gave the frame a good general clean-up. This involved removing any rouge nails, chiseling off areas of glue and sanding everything until it was smoothish and even.

Cleaning the Frame

Cleaning-up the frame.

Note: As touched-on above, it wasn’t my intention to go back to the frame on this sideboard. It does seem pretty extreme and the last thing I wanted to do was make this refurb seem over-the-top or counter-productive, or just plain unappealing to my fellow DIY’ers. It’s easy to look at a project like this and think “Hmmm, she would have been better off just building from scratch” or “It’s basically a brand new piece, what’s the point?”. Well, those are valid arguments however from my perspective I was definitely better off not building from scratch, and for the purpose of this campaign, which sees the finished piece being auctioned for charity (hopefully at a good price), the existing panels simply weren’t good enough to keep. If anything, through replacing them I actually hope to demonstrate just how d0-able it is and possibly open-up some eyes to the work-ability of pieces which may otherwise have been discounted.

 

Step 2

The Doors

To start “dressing” my sideboard again, I first cut four new doors from 12mm (1/2″) plywood using our track saw.

Cutting New Doors (Triton Track Saw)

Cutting the new doors from 12mm (1/2″) plywood.

Now, I’m not gonna lie. This wasn’t the simplest process. I mean, the trimming was easy enough, however creating accurately sized pieces was tricky due to the sideboard frame being out of square and all of the door openings being slightly different. I may have stuffed up a few times and had to cut certain doors more than once – oops! Lucky ply is cheap.

Anyhoo, stuff ups aside, the basic process involved measuring each opening as thoroughly as possible, cutting new doors as accurately as possible then making sure they actually did fit.

Once I had created, and was happy with, all four doors, I went about attaching them to the frame. Although the doors will need to be removed again for subsequent finishing, it’s important to hang them at this stage just to determine whether any further adjustments need to be made as a result of hinge position and swing movement. I decided to fit the doors prior to re-panelling the top and sides for ease of access and better visibility.

I wanted my doors to have a seamless flow so went with concealed hinges – surface mount concealed hinges to be exact. I didn’t even know these babies existed! They are much easier to fit than traditional concealed hinges which need to be embedded. They are also much cheaper.

To install the hinges I first sat my doors in place to determine how deep they needed to be mounted on the frame (because obviously I had to allow room for the doors to sit within the cavity too). I then held each hinge in position and marked the screw points before drilling pilot holes and attaching the hinges to the sideboard carcass.

Installing Concealed Hinges

Attaching the surface mount hinges to the sideboard frame.

Next, with the doors sitting in position once more and propped up on narrow shims (to provide an allowance for swing clearance), I marked the screw points on each door and went about attaching them.

Installing Surface Mount Hinges

The inside of the frame with the doors attached.
The hinges are off-set on either side of this central upright so that their fastening screws didn’t collide.

Once all the doors were mounted, I checked for clearance consistency.

As suspected, some of the doors were now rubbing on the frame in places. To remedy this, I marked the problem areas, removed the doors and trimmed them slightly using our track saw.

Due to the slightly wonky frame, the doors aren’t perfect though they’re pretty darn good.

Installing Doors

The new doors.

Note: I have no doubt there are better ways to fit hardware and mount doors though I also think practice probably plays a huge role in making a job like this easy. And if, like me, you’re not a professional or hobby carpenter, it’s kinda hard to get a heap of practice installing furniture doors! I watched video tutorials and read how-to guides though in the end I just had to tackle the job to the best of my ability. If anything I hope this gives you the confidence to try it too because I’d never done anything quite like this before and I now I have!

The Panels

We cut the new top and sides from one large sheet of 3mm (1/8″) ply using our table saw.

Triton Table Saw

Cutting the new panels from 3mm (1/8″) plywood.

Again, sections of the frame were crooked though rather than try to compensate for this (which isn’t easy to do using a table saw which likes to cut everything square), we based our dimensions off the widest measurement (so, if the bottom of the right side was 50cm wide, yet the top of the right side was only 48cm wide, we cut the panel to a consistent width of 50cm – that way, we could simply sand back any over-hang once the panel was attached).

The new ply was thicker than the previous masonite so sat proud of the existing lip at the top, resulting in an obvious step.

Plywood Panels

The new plywood was thicker than the previous masonite so sat proud of the frame.

I considered simply rounding the edge using an electric sander, which would have worked fine, though decided to route a small bullnose instead.

Triton Router

Routing a bullnose into the top.

It’s just a small detail though it makes the new top look much more integrated.

Routed Ply Top

It’s hard to see properly, though the routed edge creates a nicely rounded step.  

Attaching the panels was pretty straight forward.

I smeared the frame with some wood glue, clamped a panel in position (to save having to hold it) then hammered it on using small finishing nails which I spaced every 5cm (2″) or so.

Attaching the Panels

Attaching the panels.

Once all of the panels were attached, I went about counter-sinking any proud nails, filling holes and gaps then sanding back the over-hanging sections until everything was nice and flush.

Sanding

Sanding back an over-hanging section of the top to make it flush with the side.

I then did an all-over finishing sand using fine git paper to ensure everything was smooth and ready for painting.

Re-Paneled Sideboard

The complete (well, almost complete) sideboard.
Excuse the wonky doors, I didn’t align them for this shot.

Note: If you don’t have the right tools, or if you aren’t confident with cutting large panels of wood, your hardware store will probably do it for you. Just be sure to have accurate dimensions and stress that you need them to be precise.

Tip: Choose a plywood panel that isn’t bowed or warped and if you intend to stain it, check for imperfection and pay attention to the grain pattern. Some plywood panels are much prettier than others.

Tip: When creating several panels which are similar yet not identical (like my doors) be sure to number and mark them so you know their location and orientation. It saves lots of jigsaw playing later on!

 

Step 4

The Body

I ensured the entire carcass was nice and clean then gave it two coats of Feast Watson Floor Paint in “Charcoal Edge”.

Feast Watson Floor Paint

Feast Watson Floor Paint in “Charcoal Edge”.

I’ve never used this paint before and I found it fantastic. It has great coverage and a lovely satin sheen. More than that though, it’s incredibly durable. I scratched, scraped and bumped the finish several times with numerous sharp implements and the paint did not chip once! It’s not cheap though if you’re working on a special project I think it’s definitely worth considering.

To keep the finish super smooth I sanded between coats with fine grit paper and buffed the final coat with steel wool.

 

The Doors

Ahhhh, the doors.

And I don’t mean that in an adoring way (although now I do love them) because these babies gave me some grief!

It was just that I was using products in a way I hadn’t before so things didn’t go to plan from the get-go and lots of subsequent experimentation was called for.

Anyhoo, for the purpose of this tutorial I’ll spare you all the trials and tribulations and keep things simple by explaining the method I did end up using.

First, I sanded each door thoroughly, concluding with fine steel wool for an ultra smooth finish, before cleaning away any residual dust. Ply can be quite rough so it’s important to spend some time on the sanding process.

Sanding the Plywood Doors

Sanding the doors.

Next, I combined some Feast Watson Satin Clear Varnish with 10% Prooftint Traditional Stain in Teak Brown. This essentially created a tinted sealer.

Tinted Sealer

A combination of Feast Watson Clear Varnish and Feast Watson Prooftint creates a tinted sealer.

I then applied two coats to each door (front, back and edges) in the direction of the grain using a brush.

Applying the Stain

Staining the doors.

I sanded lightly between applications with fine grit paper, and also at completion to ensure the ensuing stencil paint had something to grip to.

Once completely dry, I laid the doors down in order on the floor, taking into account the gaps of the sideboard frame.

Doors

Laying the doors down in preparation for stenciling.
Pardon the terrible lighting and weird angle – it was tricky to get a shot of this.

Next, I placed my all-over stencil (Tribal Batic Stencil from Royal Design Studio) in position and tacked it in place with some masking tape.

Tribal Stencil

I stenciled multiple doors in one pass.

I then used a small foam roller lightly coated with white acrylic paint to embellish the doors.

Stenciling Doors

I found a foam roller produced the best results (and was also the fastest and easiest stenciling tool for this project).

When I had completed one whole pass, I carefully lifted and accurately re-positioned the stencil (using the in-built register elements – see below), continuing until all the doors were fully covered.

Repositioning the Stencil

I re-positioned the stencil using the built-in register elements (you can see them in the pic on the right – they are over-lapping elements which act as a re-positioning guide).

For an extra special touch, I stenciled both the front and rear of each door.

Once dry, I brushed on one final light coat of Feast Watson Clear Varnish to seal the stencil and protect the paint before reattaching the doors.

Tip: In the course of removing any hinges, take note of their specific location (even better, as you remove a hinge from a door, attach it to the finished frame in the corresponding position – this is what I did). I noticed that the amount of stiffness and movement varied from hinge to hinge. As my doors are all slightly different and customised to accommodate their particular hinges, this disparity could adversely effect their resting position.

Note: As touched on above, I don’t want to burden you all with the woes of this project though I think it’s pertinent to share the core of my misfortune. Basically, I initially had trouble with my stencil yellowing excessively. I think this was caused by two things: 1) stain pick-up – I originally failed to seal the stain prior to applying the stencil so when I did eventually seal the doors too much residual colour was drawn out of the wood by the brush which subsequently tinted the white paint, and 2) acrylic v’s oil – stencils work best with fast drying acrylic paints however the oil-based sealer I originally used (Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil – which I absolutely LOVE ordinarily) seemed to react adversely with the stencil paint.

 

Step 4 Feet

The feet were just screwed on so I simply removed them.

Next I sanded them lightly, gave them a good clean, taped off the silver tips and hit them with a few coats of Dulux Duramax Bright Finish in Gold.

Gold Feet Tips

Painting the tips gold.

I felt the gold was a little too brilliant so I decided to glaze it to create some richness. I mixed some Feast Watson Clear Varnish with a dash of Feast Watson Prooftint Traditional Stain in Golden Teak then brushed it on each tip. The result is a mellow, and realistic, aged brass patina.

Brass Glaze

Glazing the gold tips to create a rich antique brass look.
Please excuse the poor lighting. I took these pics at night so they’re not the best.

Glazing the tips also gives them a more durable finish so they won’t chip or scratch anywhere near as easily as regular un-coated spray paint might.

Finally I re-stained and sealed the timber portion of the feet using the same mixture of Feast Watson Clear Satin Varnish and Prooftint Stain in Teak Brown I used on the doors.

Staining the Wood Feet

Staining and sealing the feet.
Pardon the awkward look of this. It’s kinda hard to demonstrate a technique and hold a camera at the same time!

Brass Tipped Foot

I love the way the feet look refreshed yet still give a gentle nod to the history of the piece through their evident bumps and scrapes.

Step 5

AKA, the home stretch!

Given I had removed the drawers, I thought I’d better add some new internal dividers.

DIY Tribal Style Sideboard Interior

This was a simple matter of cutting four ply shelves to fit, painting them to match the body then installing some brass shelf stays for them to rest on.

Brass Shelf Stays

The shelves rest on brass stays.

Finally, to complete the unit I attached some brass handles.

I was tossing-up whether to use bold, statement hardware or go with something sophisticated and discreet when I came across these great little tab pulls.

Brass Tab Pulls

I absolutely adore these handles! They could not be more perfect.

They provide a hint of gold which ties-in perfectly with the feet tips and co-ordinates so well with the paint and stain. More than that though, they are ideally positioned so as not to compete with or interrupt the graphic doors.

Brass Tab Pull Handles

Sadly, I couldn’t find any brass ones in Australia so I had to order these from the US (where they thrive in abundance!).

They are super affordable at around $5 each. Sadly though, the international shipping is a bit of a killer at almost $40 – yikes!

Still, this was a special project so I had to have them.

 

Finished

Tribal Stenciled Sideboard Makeover | Before & After

Tribal Buffet DIY

DIY Tribal Style Sideboard Interior

When I took this sideboard on, I thought it was going to be my simplest Re-Love Project make-over to date (you can see my previous contributions here and here).

I must have been partially asleep…or just really, really drunk. LOL!

In all seriousness though, I learned heaps and am so, so proud of the finished piece.

Mid Century Modern Sideboard Makeover

I truly hope this refurb encourages a few of you to tackle something you might otherwise have felt a bit intimidated by. Absolutely everything has potential.

Mid Century Modern Tribal Buffet Makeover

Of course though, you don’t need to start with a piece that’s already got one foot in the dumpster to create something amaze-balls. This basic stencil over stain technique can be used to transform anything with super high-impact results.

DIY Mid Century Modern Buffet Makeover

Tribal Sideboard | Before and After

A huge thank you to Freedom who loaned some of the styling props, including the amazing artwork, the leather ottoman and the radial decor accent.

Tribal Cabinet Buffet Before and After

Remember, along with the pieces of the other awesome designers involved with this campaign, this unique sideboard is being sold for charity!

So, if you love it (or know someone else who might) be sure to stay tuned!

The eBay auctions go live in August and I’ll be sure to post again once they’re up and running (Feast Watson will be covering shipping costs Australia wide!).

C’mon guys, let’s spread the love (free hugs to everyone who shares socially ;) and work up some hype for the Salvos!

Mid Century Modern Tribal Buffet Before & After

Signature

Be sure to follow along with myself and  Feast Watson on Instagram to stay updated about the auctions and see the reveals of all the other designers involved!

Tribal Sideboard Buffet

I snapped this pic right at the end of my shoot and thought it was too precious not to share. My little messy-haired Charlotte.

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Acrylic & Brass Wall Shelves

Acrylic and Brass Wall Shelves | The Painted Hive

I’ve been meaning to share this little project for ages.

About six months back, I decided it was finally time to get something up on the blank wall above Charlotte’s desk.

Initially, I’d been toying with the idea of a big chalkboard or over-sized art piece (like a vintage number chart or old world map)…

Charlotte's Room Virtual Plan

Above is my original (very rough) concept rendering from a few years back where I included a massive chalkboard. You can see more of the virtual plan here.

Though as the room progressed it became apparent that some kind of display/storage surface was actually called for.

You see, Charlotte’s room is pretty tiny (2.5 x 2.5 meters/8 x 8 feet). Obviously, this means there’s limited floor space for furniture so the walls need to pick-up some of the slack.

I’d already installed floating bookshelves behind her door to make the most of that dead space…

DIY Narrow Floating Bookshelves

And a second series of little shelves on the wall above her desk seemed like the best use of that area too.

But what style of shelves?

I had a zillion different ideas and had almost settled on using reclaimed wooden floorboards (I even went to a salvage yard to look at some) when I suddenly changed my mind. Something about them just didn’t “feel” right when I imagined them in the space. I think it was their visual heaviness (as Charlotte’s angled doorway means you would basically be looking straight into the side of them) and the fact there was already quite a bit of wood in the room. I mean, I don’t mind an eclectic mix of timbers, and I think they still would have looked nice, I just knew they weren’t the best choice.

So, I went back to the drawing board and eventually decided to step outside my comfort zone and go with something a little bit fun in the form of contemporary acrylic shelves on traditional polished brass brackets!

Sourcing the brackets was easy enough (I bought them online from Discount Brass).

Brass Shelf Brackets

That said, it did take some shopping around to find the best price, and even then they were more costly than I would have liked at around $8 each – still, much better than $15 each which I’d also seen them being sold for (if you’re in the US, I’m sure you’ll be able to find them for much cheaper). I did contemplate saving some money by spray-painting some regular brackets though all the cheap ones I came across weren’t shallow enough (so would extend too far over Charlotte’s little desk – these ones are just 13cm/5″ deep). My husband even made some custom geometric plastic ones using a 3D printer. They were surprisingly cool, though the printer died before he got them all done. Besides, I really did want real brass.

The acrylic shelves were slightly more tricky to get my hands on.

I was open to DIY’ing them so did some research and discovered it would be easy enough. You can cut acrylic sheet with a regular wood saw then polish the sides with standard sandpaper (starting with a coarse paper and graduating down to something fine then finishing with a mild cleaning abrasive, such as Brasso). It would be a lot of polishing, though it was certainly doable.

The problem I had, however, was buying the acrylic sheet. The standard sizes just didn’t suit my needs. They were too thin, too large, too narrow, too long. And they weren’t cheap. I didn’t want to spend a small fortune on a massive sheet of acrylic only to use one quarter of it!

So, I started enquiring about off-cuts. After visiting several factories and encountering numerous head shakes it became apparent that was a dead end. There were bins piled high with generous scraps of thin acrylic sheet, though nothing as thick as I needed. Apparently, the cost of acrylic sheet goes up exponentially with thickness so off-cuts of anything chunky are rarely discarded or on-sold to the general public at a discounted rate. Poo.

It was time to bite the bullet and find someone to make my shelves.

So, once again, I made my enquiries and it wasn’t looking promising. $120 – $150 was the going rate for three small shelves with polished edges! Gah.

And then I came across a small business, not too far from my home, where I received a generous quote for $60 – SOLD!

Acrylic Wall Shelves | The Painted Hive

The edges look frosted in some of the pics though are actually clear and shiny. There also appear to be some imperfections in the acrylic, though it’s just weird photographic reflections. They are perfect.

To hang the shelves I first checked the general area for any wall studs I could attach the brackets to. Although it wasn’t entirely necessary to hang my shelves on studs, it does offer a bit more security (and is easier than messing around with plaster plugs). I located one vertical stud in the required vicinity so used that to attach one column of brackets to. The second column of brackets are attached to the plaster and held in place with small drywall screws.

I didn’t want to screw into my lovely acrylic shelves, so they are simply held in place with a few neat dobs of clear silicone.

Didn’t I just make that mounting process sound super quick and easy?

Truth?

It wasn’t.

For some weird reason I thought it would be best to attempt hanging these shelves with the help of a second person. Ah, apparently I was wrong.

Here’s what I learned…

1 Don’t attempt to hang shelves, or do anything which requires mathematical accuracy, with the help of your sister (if your sister is my sister).

2 Spirit levels were invented for a reason. Use them.

3 When your husband gets home from work, throw your hands up in the air, make a face resembling “The Scream”, use a few profane words then storm out. He will proceed to fix the crooked shelves.

4 If your sister holds a doctorate in mathematics, or doesn’t come complete with two extra little kids (who, combined with your two existing little kids, create a noise, mess and distraction which neutralises the imagined benefits of a second person), ignore all of the above.

Brass and Acrylic Wall Shelves | The Painted Hive

All up, this wasn’t a cheap project, coming in at just over $100. That’s a splurge for me. Had I used salvaged wood and cheaper brackets I probably could have done it for under $10!

That said, I LOVE these shelves. They are different, and fun, and perfect for Charlotte’s little room. And I’m confident that I did get the best price I possibly could for them (short of going search crazy!).

The shelves are dressed with an assortment of thrifted and found objects along with a few trinkets that are special to Charlotte.

Acrylic and Brass Wall Shelves | The Painted Hive

Vintage Agee Jars | The Painted Hive

Vintage Agee jars house collections of shells and (slightly macabre looking!) Sylvanian Families figurines along with Charlotte’s drawing pencils. Sweet retro artworks work to create layering. Beatrix potter books lend a linking colour and add interest with levels.

Acrylic Shelves with Vintage Vignette | The Painted Hive

The wire basket was actually a cheap plastic coated one from the hardware store. I simply threw it in my parent’s wood burner for a few hours. Voila!

Warrior Horse

The charming wooden giraffe is a super old antique and the ceramic warhorse was bought at the Museum of Qin Terracotta Warriors in China. Charlotte believes it’s her bedroom’s guardian :)

Vintage Vignette | The Painted Hive

If you’re a regular visitor here, you might also have noticed that I switched out the original desk and chair…

Girl's Farmhouse Bedroom | The Painted Hive

They were both super cute, though it was time for a change.

Charlotte was already out-growing the desk, so I swapped it for this vintage hall table which I found on eBay for just $20.

Vintage Desk

Photo from eBay.

The character-filled wood was lovely and warm so I just gave it a quick refresh with some linseed oil. The legs I simply cut down as required using a hand saw.

Well, when I say “simply”, I really mean “stupidly”. You see, I managed to shorten the same leg twice! Luckily, I’d decided to shrink the table gradually until I was happy with the height so even though I’d stuffed up it was still salvageable. My neighbour and I had a good laugh about it though :)

Mixing Modern and Vintage (Kids Desk and Chair) | The Painted Hive

The original farmhouse-style chair was adorable, though never really practical. Even after trimming the legs it was still too tall, and its tapered feet were always difficult for Charlotte to maneuver on the carpet.

I decided to shop around for a more functional chair, with a playful modern nod to reference the shelves, and soon came across this replica Bertoia chair.

Modern Vintage Girl's Room | The Painted Hive

It was perfect. Not only is it incredibly practical, though its open wire frame and low slung back mean it doesn’t impose on Charlotte’s teeny space – and it compliments the shelves so well! I’m contemplating making a prettier seat pad, or perhaps simply painting the existing one, though for now the white vinyl is totally fine.

Replica Wire Chair | The Painted Hive

So in love with the evolution of this space!

Acrylic Wall Shelves | The Painted Hive

Signature

Catch up on all the previous posts about Charlotte’s bedroom here.

 

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A Master Bedroom Mini Refresh

Farmhouse Bedroom Mini Makeover | The Painted Hive

I last shared pics of my master bedroom over three and a half years ago.

Not that I think there’s anything wrong with that.

In fact, there’s actually lots that’s very right about it.

You see, when I did share those pics, I also mentioned that creating spaces with a focus on longevity is a priority for me (don’t get me wrong though, I’m not saying that three and a half years is a particularly expansive length of time, however in the world of “home” blogging having exactly the same room scheme for more than five minutes kinda equates to infinity – plus, I have had all the main pieces since 2010 and plan to have them for many more years to come).

I love the idea that my interior can stand the test of time. That it’s not dictated by trends. That I don’t tire of it after one day. And that if I do ever feel the need for a change, it’s generally as simple as a new throw pillow and maidenhair fern (#fernobsessed)!

Collected Bedroom Vignette | The Painted Hive

Vintage Vignette | The Painted Hive

All that said though, things do wear out, get relocated, and simply fail to evolve as desired in conjunction with your vision.

And that’s exactly what happened in my master bedroom.

Putting all that justifiable stuff aside however, sometimes it’s just plain fun to “play house” (something I haven’t done much of since having kids!).

This mini refresh was actually sparked by our need for a new mattress. A need which happened to coincide with a fortuitous offer from Super Amart.

We were super lucky to have the opportunity to review an Orthokinetic Cirrus mattress. An opportunity which also gave me the perfect excuse to zhoosh-up our decaying bedding (the six year old valance, quilt cover and linen throw were starting to fall apart at the seams – quite literally!) and collate some lovely new vignettes (my favourite past-time!).

Vintage Vignette | The Painted Hive

I rarely buy bedding. In fact, it’s something I pretty much reserve exclusively for my birthday. Unlike decor accents, which I generally pick-up super cheap from thrift shops or department stores, I am somewhat fussy when it comes to my linen. I don’t know what it is, I just seem to have specific “musts” in that realm. It’s not like I go out of my way to purchase expensive (to me) bedding, or that I believe a hefty price tag always equates to better quality, it’s just that Kmart doesn’t seem to sell the sheets and quilt covers I really want!

Anyhoo, to dress our new bed I used a fresh valance (in the same style as the original one – just less irrevocably stained), my gorgeous new ticking sheets (again, similar to what I previously had – just less threadbare) and a new white quilt cover (once more, not unlike the preceding one – just with fewer holes).

Farmhouse Bedroom | The Painted Hive

Rustic Bedside Cabinet | The Painted Hive

Quilted Quilt Cover | The Painted Hive

Although quilted, the doona cover is quite light-weight which is perfect for my husband, who tends to over-heat, and great for me too because I have a thing for quilted doona covers and absolutely MUST HAVE ONE – win-win! This design is really cool too. It’s a pretty damask of sorts though has a slightly distressed finish which prevents it from looking overly feminine and hides all those unwanted wrinkles!

I also opted for a different pillow configuration; horizontal standard pillows, two deep green velvet throw cushions (which I made myself with fabric from Spotlight), and a block-printed lumbar pillow (again, made by myself – you can find the stamping tutorial here).

Hand-Stamped Pillows | The Painted Hive

And to accent the green cushions and break-up all the white I took a slight risk on a sumptuous faux fur coverlet.

Faux Fur Throw Rug | The Painted Hive

I must admit, I’ve been somewhat critical of faux fur in the past though I absolutely LOVE this throw! The first night we slept with it on the bed, my husband snuggled into it and said “I feel like John Snow”. Ha, ha.

I played around with a few different dressing options; such as draping the coverlet over the end of the bed, stacking the pillows, forgoing the throw cushion, and tucking the quilt and sheet under the mattress. So, if you notice the bed is styled differently from pic to pic, that’s why.

Farmhouse Style Bedroom Refresh | The Painted Hive

All of the bedding items were birthday gifts or purchased on sale.

I’m wrapt with the fresh look of the bed, though all the pretty trimmings don’t count for much if it isn’t comfy to sleep in.

So, how do we feel about the mattress…

HER VERDICT
I must admit, it took some adjusting. We’ve never owned a decent mattress before and compared to our ten year old blob – complete with custom body divots – it felt incredibly firm, bordering on hard even. Initially, I definitely regretted our decision to go with the ‘medium’ though after a few days I began to adapt and started to feel the benefits. I’m generally a pretty good sleeper though have been through a restless patch over the past few months. I don’t know if I can attribute my recent improved slumber to the new mattress, though I have definitely been sleeping more soundly since its arrival. I can’t say it’s like sleeping on a cloud (however the price tag isn’t sky high either – ha, see what I did there?). That said, it is comfy and very supportive. A massive upgrade on our previous “blob”.

HIS VERDICT
I like it. Heaps better than our old mattress.

Ahyhoo, along with the subtle changes to the bedding, I’ve also switched out the curtains.

Farmhouse Style Master Bedroom | The Painted Hive

I actually did this around two years back. The original white sheers were just starting to discolour and, to be honest, the messiness of their flimsy tabs always bothered me.

I replaced the black rod and finials with a real bamboo pole and wooden drawer knobs (similar to what I did here in Charlotte’s room) and the updated drapes are the LENDA from Ikea. The LENDA come with tabs – which is fine, just not my favourite – so I simply removed them and created a basic rod pocket. I realise a rod pocket isn’t necessarily a step-up on tabs, nor is it the most sophisticated or tailored form of curtain heading, though something about it works for me in this room.

Finally, to freshen-up the general vibe, some re-accessorising was called for!

Collected Farmhouse Vignettes | The Painted Hive

I first removed all of the existing decor pieces (which wasn’t difficult given most of the accessories from the “three-and-a-half-years-ago” pics had already been relocated elsewhere in my home!).

Bedroom Before

I love working from scratch when refreshing the decor in a space. Even if you plan on using some of the existing pieces (as I did), I believe it’s still helpful to remove them first. There’s just something therapeutic about starting with a blank canvas – for me, it offers a sense of clarity and helps open my mind to new possibilities.

I wanted to retain the room’s natural, layered, slightly vintage, collected feel, so I reinstated many of the original accessories.

Bedside Drawers Vignette | The Painted Hive

Bedside Table Vignette | The Painted Hive

All of the “new” items are pieces I already owned. Nothing has been purchased specifically for the space and pretty much everything was originally thrifted.

Bedroom Collage | The Painted Hive

Sophisticated Farmhouse Master Bedroom | The Painted Hive

I know in comparison to my pics from three and a half years back, the changes appear to be quite subtle. As mentioned above though, since then many of the original items have worn out and moved on so for me the transformation is actually pretty substantial – and everything just feels so good!

Farmhouse Style Bedroom | The Painted Hive

PRODUCT COSTS & SOURCES
Sheet Set: Taylor Road (Organic Ticking in Charcoal – $120 on sale)
Quilt Cover: Adairs (Botanica Matalesse in White – $140 on sale)
Faux Fur Coverlet: Bed, Bath ‘n’ Table (Arctic Fur in Possum – Gift)
Valance: Bed, Bath ‘n’ Table (Perfects Pleated – Gift)
Curtains: Ikea (LENDA in Beige – $30)
Rug: Ikea (discontinued – the LOHALS is similar)
Lamps: Early Settler (discontinued)
Green Velvet Cushions: Personal Project (fabric from Spotlight – $22 per meter on sale)
Block Printed Cushion: Personal Project (click for tutorial)
Map Headboard: Personal Project (click for tutorial)
Furniture: eBay (click to see earlier related posts)

Signature

I received no remuneration in exchange for writing this blog post however I was gifted an Orthokinetic Mattress for the purpose of a review.
All opinions are my own.

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How to Stain Timber | A Video Tutorial

If you’re a regular visitor here, you may have read snippets about this “secret” project.

Well, a few months back I was lucky to be invited to take part in and style a professional video tutorial for Feast Watson!

How to Stain Timber

It was like nothing I’ve ever done…and I loved it!

I can’t thank Feast enough for taking a chance on this “behind-the-camera” girl. I know it was probably risky for them – I just hope they think it payed off!

In around March I was asked to source an item of furniture to make-over for the video using Feast Watson Prooftint (interior wood stain). Given I was unsure of time-frames, and the fact this whole video process thing was totally new to me, I thought it best to stick with something familiar. So when I came across this worn deco style dresser on eBay for just $10 I couldn’t say no.

Dresser Makeover Before

It was almost identical to the bedside table I had previously made-over for my own bedroom.

Farmhouse Bedroom

I knew I could refresh it in a similar style and demonstrate just how powerful a stain-based make-over can be by totally transforming the look and feel of the piece.

So, that sad little chest of drawers sat in my backyard shed, waiting for someone to make it happy again. And as the weeks passed by, with no word on a production date from Feast, I was beginning to think they’d changed their minds about entrusting a novice with their precious video.

Then, I received an email!

I had around one week to fully prep my piece, select and arrange styling props for the set and purchase an appropriate outfit for the filming.

One week!

Those of you who know me, and know the pace I move at since having two kids who like to hang off my jean legs, will know this was a frightening time-frame for me!

I get that for a seasoned stylist (or a more efficient mum), one whole week is probably a lovely luxury. Though I am far from a “seasoned stylist” (or a “more efficient mum”!).

It was flailing arms time! With no professional styling experience and limited industry contacts I didn’t know where to start.

Anyhoo, after I calmed down, broke the internet and had two (okay, four) glasses of wine, things seemed slightly less daunting.

It wasn’t easy though in one week I managed to prep my piece, pull together a scheme for the set (which involved arranging the loan and logistics of several items – including a whole queen sized bed!) and buy a camera worthy “work” outfit – far more appealing than my usual paint-encrusted ensemble.

Here’s the mood board I presented…

Mood Board

At the time, I was still awaiting confirmation of all the filming specs and finalisation on the brief so obviously not everything made the final cut.

And here are some of the items I did end up using…

Classic Neutrals (Styling Props Mood Board)

Caitlyn Bed | 2 Paloma Lamp | 3 Label Pulls | 4 Bolu Rug | 5 Ticking Sheets

I can’t thank enough all the awesome brands who agreed to loan me pieces (#grateful).

The two days of filming were full-on, though also super fun and interesting. The production crew were amazing however I still felt a sense of personal responsibility – like it was somehow my job to ensure the product really shined. Of course, I realise I was merely one small cog in the machine, though that self-imposed pressure certainly created a few moments of self-doubt (I may even have been overheard mumbling “you can do this, you can do this” under my breath on more than one occasion!).

I would have loved a bit more time to perfect the final styling, though overall everything came together beautifully and I’m super pleased with the little video.

Pardon the unflattering stillshot. Apparently Feast Watson are having trouble uploading custom static images.

I don’t share much of “me” on my blog, and am a pretty private person by nature, so it’s a tad daunting putting this out there. That said, I love that you guys, especially those of you who have followed for years and become like friends to me, finally get to hear my voice (albeit a recorded one) and see me properly (well, kinda). And hopefully seeing this transformation in video form helps demonstrate just how easy the wood staining process can be and instills some confidence in those of you who might otherwise have felt a little intimidated by it.

How to Stain Wood | The Painted Hive

Have a great end to the week all.

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Ikea Curtain Hack

I know you guys think I’ve forgotten I’m supposed to be finishing the living-dining room makeover at my parent’s house, though I am still working on it…and it’s sooooo nearly done!

One of the projects I’ve just crossed off the “to do” list is the window treatments.

There are three large windows (one incorporating a glass sliding door) in the space so it was a biggish job and getting it right was important.

Here they are in my initial concept renderings…

3D Concept Rendering

3D Concept Rendering - Windows

For privacy and light and climate control we started by installing simple white block-out roller blinds which blend seamlessly with the architraves.

White Roller Blind

Practical, yet not so pretty.

Roller blinds are my go-to. They are super affordable, incredibly functional and relatively streamline – which works well if you’re after a clean look. If, however, you want to create a sense of cosiness and make a bit of a statement with your window dressings, they do lack the softness and impact of some fabric treatments. So, we also decided to hang stationary drapes. These not only help temper the lines of the window frames and provide relief from all the “hard” surfaces in the space, though also work to conceal the roller blind cords and ends.

You might recall from one of my previous posts that we went with inexpensive off-the-shelf curtains from Ikea (the LENDA in beige).

Ikea Lenda Curtains

The tie-backs make them look a bit dated in this pic. We won’t be using them.

Ikea curtains are a great option. In general they are quite affordable and come in lots of simple styles which lend themselves to a myriad of schemes and are perfect for further customisation. Also, their proportions tend to be quite generous which allows for mounting them high or pooling them on the floor (if you like that look). More than that though, their ample drop also provides wiggle room for adapting the heading (with ease) if desired – which is exactly what we did!

To give our curtains a more tailored look, we decided to remove the tabs and add little rings. This was a simple matter of cutting off the existing tabs, re-hemming the top then sewing on some heading (pleat) tape.

Curtain Hook Tape

Next, to determine the right drop, we hung them on their rods (mum previously had curtains in the room so we simply used the existing ones), pinned the bases up so they just skimmed the floor then took the curtains down again and sewed-up the hems.

To further customise the panels, I also decided to add a subtle pattern in the form of a trellis stencil.

Moroccan Trellis Stencil

I bought this stencil for a project about three years ago and never got around to using it. I found it here on Etsy. The pattern’s not absolutely ideal for curtain panels though it was fun to use something I already had.

I haven’t really stenciled since I was a teenager and thought it would be cool to make my bedroom look galactic! And I’ve never used a large all-over stencil before. Though despite my initial hesitation it was actually super easy. So easy I didn’t feel it even warranted a proper tutorial, though here are the basics of what I did…

How to Stencil Curtains

1 With a curtain panel laid flat on the floor, I positioned the stencil in the center.

How To Stencil

2 Using quite a dry foam roller (I “off-loaded” excess paint by rolling it back and forth in a small paint tray), I applied a sparing amount of white acrylic craft paint.

How To Stencil Fabric

3 Once one full stencil was complete and dry to the touch (sparingly applied acrylic craft paint dries almost instantly on fabric), I lifted the stencil and re-positioned it as required, working from the center out until the whole curtain panel was complete.

Stenciled Curtain

I started quite cautiously, measuring to the center of the panel, taping down each side of the stencil and using the “registration elements” (small triangular marks you can see in one of the above pics – designed to act as a guide for accurately re-positioning the stencil). After my initial panel was complete however, I decided it wasn’t necessary to be too fussy. I stopped using tape and started guessing where the center of the panel was based on the fold lines. I also gave up using the registration elements and simply eyed the re-positioning of the stencil. It was heaps quicker and the results are identical. If I was stenciling something really prominent, like a wall, I would probably take more care, though curtains are pretty forgiving. Besides, I did want a slightly imperfect “hand-made” look anyway.

Because the curtains won’t be closed, you don’t see the stenciling in its entirety. It’s a bit of a shame because the trellis design is really cool though I do love the way that little hints of pattern peek out here and there, helping to break-up the beige and add some interest.

And I adore how the dots and squares impart a slightly tribal feel.

Stenciled Curtains

Sorry I don’t have any “full” shots…they are coming soon along with the complete room reveal!

As mentioned above, mum previously had curtains in the room so we used her existing metal rods and brackets. And to keep costs down we went with plastic rings and finials.

Yep, they’re plastic. Is that a decorating faux par? Can anyone even tell what they’re made of when they’re seven feet off the floor? I know I can’t.

Hang on then. Just pretend I never told you and no-one will ever know. Shhhh.

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Catch up with all posts about this room makeover here.

 

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